Roaming Media spent two weeks in camp and on safari with The Outpost Lodge. I was elated to explore this remote section of the Kruger National Park because it’s always been a bucket list destination for me to visit. So it was a huge privilege to kick off our content shoot with Rare Earth Retreats in this phenomenal wilderness.
The Pafuri makes up the Northernmost tip of the Kruger. Consequently, it shares a border with both Zimbabwe and Mozambique. It’s a patchwork of habitats ranging from rocky outcrops, bush veld, sand veld, rivers and alluvial floodplains. While it’s not common to see lions in this area, there are frequent sightings of the other big 5 members. Also, it has a list of avian residents that is hard to beat in South Africa. There’s a lot to see and do and so for the sake of brevity – I’ve squished all my drive experiences into one post.
A morning drive on safari with The Outpost begins with a pre-sunrise wakeup by one of the enthusiastic guides. A huge, bearded smile greeted me as I opened my door. It was Bongs, who grew up in the adjacent Makuleke community and has been guiding in the Pafuri for several years. He gave me my 30 minute call and left me to respawn with a morning coffee (from my rooms Nepresso machine). Usually one cup doesn’t quite do it for me, so I was pleased to find more freshly brewed coffee upon arriving at the main lodge. Now appropriately conscious for the mornings mission, I boarded the game drive vehicle and we went off on our way.
The Makuleke Contractual Park
The socio-political history of the Pafuri section of Kruger holds special significance.
The Kruger was historically occupied by various indigenous tribes before its proclaimation as a protected area. Most of them were forcibly removed by the authorities without any form of compensation. There have not been many attempts at land claims because the removals generally happened before 1913. This was the cut-off date set by the South African government for land restitution in the park.
The Makuleke community in northern Kruger is an exception to this. They were forcibly moved from the area in 1969 after occupying the Pafuri land for generations. However, they forged a historic deal with the South African government in 1998. Instead of reoccupying the land and compromising the wildlife heritage of the area, the Makuleke clan entered into a private-sector agreement, and partnered with the government to grow the tourist appeal of the Northern Kruger. There are various ghosts of the areas history littered around the routes, from plaques to foundations and signposts – all recalling a history hidden beneath the encroaching wilderness.
On The Road
Hopping onto the tar road, I immediately noticed the density of the bush on either side. The walls of tree trunks and vines obscured the hidden wilderness behind them – leaving much to our imaginations. The salient lack of other safari-goers in the area made it feel like we had the whole magical place to ourselves. With the sun just beginning to burn through the crowded canopy, we had our first animal encounter for the day: A bull elephant slowly picking his way along the tar road.
Beautiful Baobabs
Turning off the tar road, the veld opened up a little to reveal something many consider iconic to the area. Hundreds of baobab trees, some of the largest I’ve ever seen, littered the landscape. Bulbous, ancient trees glooping downwards as though they’re melting while their rooty branches and starry leaves reach up for the sky. Bongs took me to visit a few of them during my stay and I struggled to capture their immensity on camera.
Buffalos in the Basin
Several people warned me about the heat in Pafuri. Threats of soaring temperatures had me working up a sweat before I’d even started packing. Several overcast days and a graciously-roofed vehicle largely relieved me of these stresses. The variety of weather I experienced over my two-week stay gave me some opportunities to shoot the landscape in a moody light. One scene I particularly enjoyed was a large herd of buffalo in a gorgeous, verdant floodplain, edged by towering palms.
We got to witness an interesting aspect of the relationship that buffalo share with oxpeckers, where the birds keep a wound on the animal open. It is the blood that can be found in ticks that make them a target of the oxpecker, so by preventing the buffalo’s wound from healing they get to drain fresh blood directly from the source.
Lala Palms
The Lala Palms a common sight while on safari with the Outpost in Pafuri. Their striking shape and sea foam green leaves have a practical use too. Guide Ezaya stopped to show us how they can be weaved into baskets and more.
Lanner Gorge
Pafuri is all about the landscapes. We visited two spectacular gorges during my stay. The first being the renowned Lanner Gorge. Standing up on the roof of the Kruger and looking down over the winding river so very far down below is a really special feeling. It’s a fantastic place to sink a gin and tonic and the resident elephant shrews are equally entertaining as they are cute.
Mutale Gorge
The lesser-known Mutale Gorge was just as magnificent. Bongs took me out there one early morning and we were met there by the baboons, who sat and absorbed the dawn and discussed the worlds problems. One of my favourite photographs was taken of this sunrise meeting.
We did a fair amount of cliff-sitting ourselves, perched up high above the river – we watched the swallows dart about the opposite rock face and even spotted a suspiciously cat-like set of tracks on the riverbed below us.
Crook’s Corner
The Mutale river flows into the Luvuvhu, which in turn meets the Limpopo River at Crook’s corner: the border between South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. Sitting and watching the water lazily travel along it’s route – you’re reminded of the lawless lives lived by the ivory poachers, arms and slave smugglers of the early 1900’s, who would use this point as a means to hop over the border and out of their pursuers jurisdiction.
The various stops along riverbanks provided some wonderful shady spots for morning coffee and a bit of bird (and croc) watching.
Walking Safari
Pafuri is best enjoyed on foot. I’ve always loved how walking safaris give you the opportunity to do nature slowly – see things in geological time and the interconnectedness of the land. Walking beneath the old baobabs and between cliffs that overlook the winding rivers gives you a new perspective on this wilderness and the marvellous animals that call it home.
Fever Tree Forest
Of all the interesting landscapes that Pafuri has to offer, my favourite by far has to be the Fever Tree Forest. Giant, yellow, powdery trunks tower up from the vine-covered floor. Above, the dense is canopy is eerily quiet, it’s thorny branches meshing together against the blue sky. An elder I met in the Makuleke village told me that the fever trees didn’t grow there when he was a little boy. It’s a fantastical and surreal setting – not surprising considering it’s the largest forest of fever trees in the southern hemisphere. It really resonates with the magic of Pafuri. Especially while watching the sun flare in bright orange through the gnarly branches of the fevers, as the day comes to an end. Another perfect place for an icy cocktail and stories shared of lives lived in this incredible wilderness. Cheers to that.
Thanks to everyone from The Outpost and Pets Post for a phenomenal stay. I can’t wait to be back again! Make sure to keep an eye on our blog for more updates from life on the roam!
– Rogan Roams
